Tesco has a wine from South America on its shelves right now. It's not just any old wine. It's a 'Reserve' wine. Well, it's not just any old Reserva either! It's a 'Special Reserve' or an 'Especial Reserva' to be precise.
Lucky Tesco and lucky us. Very lucky. It will only set us back €6.99.
How do they do it? Those Tesco boys. Don't they just Give us a Little Every Day and as we all know Every Little Helps. They really must know their stuff. Those Tesco Boys.
They certainly know how to fool us and they know how to make wine labels that stick to more than just the bottle.
Reserva is a wine term that in many instances means nothing whatsoever. At €6.99 this is clearly one of those instances. If Reserva means nothing, as in this case, then what the hell does Especial Reserva mean?
What can we expect next? House Special Especial Reserva.
A Reserve wine means something to me. It says that it 's a step up and a step away from the basic wine in the range. It has been reserved or chosen by the wine maker as a wine that we can judge him or her by. It's a wine that shows the region off to its best; it's a wine that shows the potential of the ageing process and how the grapes in question have responded. Above all it's a wine that its worth paying a bit extra for.
In the case of the Tesco wine - it's worth pointing out here that 'the Tesco' wine is simply a good example of this type of wine label and Firstpress is not impugning Tesco in any shape or form as being a culprit; this is a widespread practice throughout the wine trade - neither the word Reserva nor the word Especial mean anything whatsoever!
The world that is wine is a peculiar place. No other foodstuff would be allowed to get away with the degree of obfuscation that exists with wine labels.
To begin with there is no ingredient labelling. (Randal Gram at Bonny Doon has begun the process of voluntary disclosure.) There are very differing wine laws in existence throughout the world. If one guy is allowed to put something into the wine and another is not we should be made aware of the ingredient that has been added before we put it into our mouth!
There should be mandatory explanations of terms such as Classico and Superiore and Reserva when they have been put onto the label. If they mean something then be proud of it.
Retailers should be questioned. What does that mean? Why is it on the label? What do you mean it means nothing? Give them a hard time and they'll soon bring their grumbles up the supply chain. Yank their cord and they'll flush it.
This is a well fashioned web of deceipt that has gone on for so long now that the trade cannot see the problem.
Just think of the new toilet duck was a 'Reserva'. We'd all roll around laughing and then ask the supplier for an explanation.
Put Reserva on to a jam and we'd expect a difference of some sort over the non reserva.
Put it on to a wine and all we say is that we are getting very good value at €6.99 for a Reserva. Who's fooling who here?


