Someone Please STOP KPMG from Retailing Alcohol

When I read last week that KPMG was about to retail the dregs of the Papillon Wines' disaster I paid scant attention. I even Tweeted the event. Then I Tweeted my recommendations as to what punters should buy. Finally I questioned the morality of a liquidator retailing wine in the first place. If a liquidator has a few cases that he needs to unload then a fire sale is a fair option. Quick in and quick out. But this is no fire sale. There is so much stock here that this is going to continue for weeks!

Who does KPMG think they are retailing against local businesses. Are they trying to put locals out of business?

The Papillon stock, or to be technically correct, the Parbind stock, was never purchased as a retail item. Some was brought in for the Vaughan Johnson store in Essex Street. The majority was meant to be distributed into the trade which in turn would sell it. No small retailer would be in a position import this quantity of wine and retail it at these prices. It is grossly unfair that a liquidator would be allowed to take stock (for free) and sell it in this fashion. This is not the same as an auction in an old warehouse down at the docks. This is direct competition with many small retailers who have spent years building up legitimate businesses. KPMG should be ashamed of themselves.

KPMG would go bust themselves if they imported this quantity of these wines for sale at these prices.

Then KPMG says CASH ONLY. How many legit retailers could, or would, get away with that?

Besides, it is highly irresponsible towards the safety of their staff to advertise a cash only retail operation.

The KPMG Pop Up Wine Store is something that shouldn't be allowed a licence. Here today and gone tomorrow is irresponsible. Retailing of alcohol should be treated with a great deal more respect.

Why Stillorgan? Well, that's the neck of the woods where people buy wine. This sale of thousands of cases of wine is a targeted campaign where the only aim is to raise cash to pay off The Revenue Commissioners. The wine on sale was made by small wineries who were not paid at all. Revenue should be ashamed of itself. The liquidator here is targeting sales of alcohol so that Revenue can get its hands on the money. The small growers all over the world who made this wine will be left high and dry. KPMG should be ashamed of itself.

Finally, responsible selling of alcohol is being flouted here. Just when the Minister for Justice has forced the retail trade of Ireland to sell all alcohol in a responsible manner KPMG comes along and retails thousands of cases of wine at unreal prices by staff who know nothing about the product at all - just so long as its CASH ONLY.

This is wrong on so many fronts that someone in authority needs to step up to the plate and stop this before we find vodka and beer being sold in the same way. God forbid if its something other than wine.

The KPMG web page has a section on Social Responsibility. It goes, "At KPMG we believe corporate social responsibility (CSR) is at the heart of all great organisations, and we are committed to making a real difference to the communities in which we operate." I suggest that flogging alcohol that you never had to purchase in the first place at unreal prices is taking social responsibility towards a new meaning altogether!

Beaujolais Nouveau - It's Wine Time

Nectar Wines Announces the 'Arrival'

Beaujolais Nouveau is my annual reminder that the seasons have actually changed and that it will soon be time to bring the curtain down on another year.

Last week saw the arrival of the 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau. Arrival is quite a strong word for what actually happened! More like a limp or a slither. Well, it arrived. Just barely and the day after that Henry thing as well. Timing can be everything.

Nouveau is released onto the retail trade in the third Thursday of November each year. Between that day and the end of the harvest the wine has been fermented, bottled and transported. The grape used to make Beaujolais is the Gamay. I like it because it has a fleshy soft and exhuberant nature to it. Many inexpensive Beaujolais wines are subjected to the crude maceration carbonique (mc) process whereby whole berries are enclosed into a sealed container. The ferment begins inside the grape and as pressure builds up (the mc bit) the grape throws a sort of artificial perfume into the wine of overripe banana meets Mr. cherry candy floss.

Really fine Beaujolais does exist. (Sorry Simon, but it does.) Try a Conterno wine from Mitchell and Son or indeed one of the Christian Bernard Fleuries distributed by River Wines.

Nouveau was never meant to be 'Fine Wine.' Its a celebration, a fun thing and a frivolous beginning to the new vintage.

I went out last week and found three different Nouveau's all for around the €11.50 mark. It was quite a search. As I said the 'Arrival' was not well supported by the trade.

I tried all three last Friday at the http://www.greatfood.ie/ kitchen. We were treated to a pedigree bull Angus named (as it happens) Wentworth and an exceptional sea bream and bass fish soup of the most tantalising variety.

First out was Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau 2009.

The label pays homage to Pop Art and depicts 'Mademoiselle Mommessin' against a Pop Art background.

This wine nails the whole idea of a wine being indecently young. It's like an unfermented Ribena juice. And this is what makes it work!! Awkward, stalky banana aromas are almost unbearable on the palate. This is fun with a capital F but its not wine as we'd like it to be. No, it's Nouveau as it should be. Once a year and no more but bring it on again next year.

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 is from the Beuajolais maestro himself. The man with the paragon palate who claims to taste 400 wines at time - for buying purposes only you understand. This is wine as we know it. The youthful flush of unripe gamay is found on the palate but its a rounded and well made fleshy, fruity wine. It shows the grape off well and shows Duboeuf off equally well but its not nearly as much fun as the Mommessin wine is.

Finally we tried a producer I was unfamiliar with - Domain de la Beche Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 from Olivier Depardon. I believe its imported by Louise Albrouze on Leeson St Upper but I purchased it out in the fine Drinks Store on Dublin's Manor Street. Great wine. Rounded satisfying, rich and well tended fruit. Purple edge to the fruit and a fresh, vibrant piquancy to the bouquet. Soft and inviting palate with interesting, fleshy lightly spiced fruits lead to a good finish. Went well with Wentworth! (Clearly there's very little Nouveau Fun here!) The label peels off and I suspect that as this wine is well capable of claiming a Beuajolais Village appellation it may well carry that label as soon as the Buzz, with a small b, dies away.

Good craic this year. Its over now. Thanks for the memories. Look forward to it all again next November.

Sommeliers: Convenience or Necessity?

It's not too long ago that my brother and I almost wrestled with a wine waiter who insisted that the (obviously) corked wine was in perfect condition. He won. We're nice guys. We haven't returned to the restaurant. Would our experience have been different if the restaurant had had the benefit of an experienced sommelier? Yes, and we would have returned.

Simon Keegan is the current President of the Irish Guild of Sommeliers. He's the happy one on the left of the photo! At the recent Sommelier of the Year competition he emphasised that a 'good sommelier should not be looked on as a cost to a quality restaurant but as a revenue generator'. He has a point. My anecdote above shows that a 'lost' customer is seldom found again. That very same wine waiter could very easily have steered the bro' and myself towards a better and (possibly) even a more expensive wine, returned the dud bottle to his supplier and kept us as customers to sell to in the future.

If we have to accept that a sommelier does cost money then what can we expect to get as a return? Most Sommelier Guilds will have training programmes that ensures its members are up to date with mostly everything to do with wine. They will pay especial attention to the art of wine service and to wine selection both on behalf of the employer and on behalf of the wine customer. In addition they will be expert in food and wine matching.

The Irish Guild's website goes further and says that, 'A modern day sommelier must know more about all beverage products, beers-cocktails-spirits etc to be able to enhance their guests experiences as well wine! They are the connection between the wine maker, wine importer, the chef in the kitchen and the guest who is the final end user. Sommelier’s are ambassadors for the wines that they list, and the restaurants and hotels that they work in.'

I paid a visit to the recent Irish Sommelier of the Year finals held at the Four Seasons in Ballsbridge. I was met by poise and class dressed to impress. I met all three winners of this years competition. Each one is impressive. Each one will improve the business that they are working for.

In first place was Julie Dupouy of The Residence in Dublin (pictured above). Second was Anke Hartman of The Cliff House in Waterford and third was Damien Corr of the Cellar Restaurant at TheMerrion Hotel in Dublin 2. (As both Julie and Anke have not lived in Ireland long enough under ASI rules (3 years continuous) Damien as best placed eligible competitor has the opportunity to represent Ireland in the Best Sommelier of the World in Chile next year)

I have a great deal of respect for anyone who puts themselves into competition. It must be especially nerve racking when you are being judged by your peers - in public. Well done to everyone involved.

Wondering whether a sommelier is worth it or not? Travel down to next years competition. Its the best shop window any trade is likely to dress up in. This is where knowledge and skill and style are employed to work for everyone involved. This is where cutomers are kept on side and looked after. This is service - with a smile.

Warres 1979 Quinta da Cavaldinho Tasting at Kevin Ecock's School of Wine

The Wine School is a great (best) place to try out the fine and venerable. No, I'm not talking about myself again!

This week I burrowed deep into the back of the wardrobe and fished out a bottle of Warres 1979 Quinta da Cavaldinho. I put it up beside Warres Otima 10Year old Tawny and Warres Warrior Special Reserve.

Great tasting. Just look at the colours!

Both Otima and Warrior have a distinctive smoothness. One of my students went further when he said that Warrior ' drinks more like a rich red wine than a Port'. Clever students.


1979 Quinta da Cavaldinho only threw a light sediment. The photo above shows a rich mahogany. Seriously attractive. It opened up quickly with a lots of fig like fruits but they weren't dancing. They were rich and interesting but equally gave the impression of being tired and languid. The palate followed this theme - rich and infused with age elements with a soft and rich fruit still well to the fore.

The fruit is enjoying a late middle to early old age period. No need to drink up yet but age elements will begin to dominate from here on in. If you want fruit then drink now. I completely loved the fact that raisiny and sunburn are completely absent. It's not in the least bit spirity.

A fine example of a well aged single quinta port with a deft Warres touch of assured wine making showing through the full thirty years from 1979 and on into Otima and Warrior today.

Brights 1988 Ice Wine at Kevin Ecock's School of Wine

Many of you know that I have been a sucker for Canadian Ice Wine for a long time now. Others know that I am passionate about teaching wine. Every now and then I bring both passions together.

Last night I treated my wine school students to an old bottle of Brights Ice Wine. (Note the label refers to it as being an Eiswein.) I wasn't expecting a lot as many early bottlings from Ontario were works in progress. Many (that I have opened) didn't age well; not because of the fruit but because of corks and poor bottling practice etc

But when they survive, boy, they are unbelievably interesting. This was one of those times.

A quite brilliant and clean medium depth tawny with distinct orange and khaki flashes. Excellent, fresh and lively bouquet showing very few signs of age. Those that are there are well smothered by lightly roasted and caramelised fruits with overripe peach skin and some stewed rhubarb.

The palate is weighty and rich with extreme fruit sweetness. Excellent acidity holding all of this richness together. No hints of age on the palate; just pure sunshine in a bottle.

Do I spoil my students. Not at all. Do I spoil myself. Absolutely!

Beaujolais Nouveau - It's Hug Time

A sommelier, for whom I have a lot of time, recently said he would not list anything from Beaujolais. Most supermarkets in Ireland will not carry a Beaujolais Nouveau tomorrow. Many in the trade continue to shun Nouveau as they see it as the architect of a quality decline out of the Beaujolais region. What's going on? Have we all lost the run of ourselves?

It's time to look at Nouveau again. Judge all wines every year by what's in the bottle.

A firstpress 10 Point Guide to Beaujolais Nouveau

It's supposed to be Fun - so Have Fun

It's a post vintage Celebration - Celebrate

It's the first of This Years Vintage

Nouveau cannot be Responsible for the rest of Beaujolais

Drink as Young as Possible but

Don't shun it at Christmas Time

If it's light and fruity then give it a thumbs up

Don't expect it to be the cheapest wine in the store - why should it be?

Have a laugh at the labels loll

Look forward to next year already

Landmark Australia - World Class

Two weeks ago Dermot Nolan MW presented a Master Class in the Constitution Room of the Shelbourne Hotel in Dublin. His theme was based on the Landmark Australia tutorial that he was a participant at last June out in Australia. It was an excellent tasting but then Landmark Australia really is at the top end of everything that a quality wine trade could aspire to.

Landmark is a part of Wine Australia's marketing strategy. The three other platforms in this strategy are Brand Champions, Generation Next and Regional Heroes. The latter has been well expressed in Ireland through excellent tastings organised by Wine Australia representative John McDonnell.

Landmark is introduced on Wine Australia's web site as, 'The name says it all. Landmark Australia reflects the Australian fine wine dimension – the ultra-premium collectables that are known and respected around the world. Landmark Australia is by definition neither inclusive nor self-selecting – it is the recognition of some of the leading wines from Australian estates that have harnessed either awards and/or recognition for outstanding excellence in wine style, pedigree and quality. Collectable, renowned ‘conversation’ wines that compare with the very best in the world.'

By all accounts the Tutorial last June was one of the finest ever organised. It's participants were truly privileged. Dermot gave us a flavour of what he had learnt and I, for one, was very impressed.

If you can, ask John for a copy of the Landmark Australia Tutorial Edition publication. It covers each of the extraordinary 2009 Tutorial tastings in great detail.

The following are the wines Dermot introduced to us. They are all quite brilliant and my comments must be read with that in mind.

Brown Brothers “Patricia” Sparkling Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, King Valley, Victoria, 2004.

My initial disappointment with a 'small' nose was tempered by an immense palate. Immense in this context means rich, complex and interesting in a very broad sense.

I was very taken with this wines appearance in the glass where a light gold was infused with a tremendous bead that spiralled with a great and persistent vigour.

The small nose had lime, other bright citrus elements, light toast and ripe plum skin. There was an instant recognition of serious quality on the palate where an exceptionally well formed fruit made its presence felt in a totally luxurious fashion. Citrus elements really shone here and were poised beautifully against the structure of the wine which produced a distinct counterpoint crispness. Lovely lean and clean finish. This is very fine winemaking in a wine that shows plenty of potential to get even better with future vintages.

Mount Horrocks “Watervale” Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia 2005.

When I taste wines like these I really am at a loss as to why Riesling is not the most popular grape varietal on sale today. OK, this does have some 'development' on the nose that the Australians, we were told by Dermot, will not refer to as 'petroleum jelly' like - they consider that smell a fault! So, this is a very big and obvious bouquet that's clean as a whistle and shows distinctive Riesling elements of the cheese room - in a good sense. It's a deep bouquet that suggests relative warmth. Follows well to the palate where a background bracing structure of ripe and elastic acidity
is attentive behind a perched fruit and light residual sugars that all offer an insight into an alternative tasting universe. This is a sublime wine which will reward both young drinking and, with its endless palate, good long term cellaring.

Pewsey Vale “The Contours” Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia 2002.

Very different wine to Mount Horrocks. My notes suggest I prefer the former but I think I might have been in the minority at the tasting! Another excellent bouquet. I found some earth and clay behind an impressive fruit that screamed Turkish delights, quince and lightly developed edges of a quality cheese room. Very full and rich palate just burst into the gums and cheeks with bracing and intensely delicate fruit. (It really can be an insane grape). Fruit 'grows' well and balances back against the very clean structure here to achieve a sharp and ripe richness. I felt tannins in a huge finish where the fruit just would not go as it tugged onto my taste buds long after it seemed possible.

Peter Lehmann “Margaret” Barossa Semillon, Barossa Valley 2003

Ah, a Barossa Semillon where the alcohol is an honest 11.5% and the wine maker has done nothing at all with the wine except to allow its fruit to express itself properly. I was not entirely happy, however, that this wine held its own at a Landmark tasting. It is fruit driven in a good oily and steely fruit style where a fine acidity balances the heat and rich elements of the fruit well. I liked it a lot but found that the structure pushed the wine to a finish rather than carried it through ie don't confuse structure with finish - the latter is elegant and a part of the quality of the wine while the former is supposed to help to deliver that quality, not be the quality. If you know what I mean?? Is this a premium Barossa Semillon. I don't think so but I would be more than happy to drink it at any time.


Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2003.

Good old fashioned Chardonnay in wood with a big wow factor. Rich and gold, well polished appearance. Deeply impressive fruit on the nose. Almost intimidating. I fell in love with the perfumed effect the wood here has given to the fruit. Lot's of peach and (light) orange fruits. Another fruit very persistent......but what? I found good clay in the background. Palate opens up a bit oaky (youth) rich and warming wine with a very obvious intent that soon leads to a great and extreme minerality which in turn develops into a fine, crunchy finish. Where has wine like this gone to over the past few years? Why do we have to throw out oak in chardonnay? This is a style with a future!

Penfolds “Yattarna” Chardonnay 2006.

Now for something completely different. Well, different to the Leeuwin Chard above.

This has a lovely light golden appearance and gently rising fruit on the bouquet. It's a big fruit but it is obviously gentle with a finely crafted oaking hidden well into the background. The palate blends a fine effect of lees, fruit and oak. It's rich and sumptuous, soft and elegant. The fruit builds up to the back of the palate and then hangs up there in a full, rich and impressive style. Finish has savoury edges that last well. To drink and to age. Very powerful testament to how well blending and ageing is understood at Penfolds.

Yabby Lake Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2007

A fine ruby of attractive medium depth ruby introduced a bouquet that exploded into my nose with an immense fruit. There is no development or dirt of any kind here. This is just an extraordinary high level of very highly charged, top quality fruit. Here is a very exciting wine. The raspberry is alive and allied to light dark currants. Uplifting fruit on the palate drives the wine, with a lot of energy, into a very big structure. Great balance - big palate stops just in time; almost checks itself; so it doesn't get too powerful and run away with its own importance. Continues as an elegant wine to a really quite stunning finish. This is really very fine wine indeed. I found my Landmark!





TarraWarra “MDB” Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2006.

I'm sorry to say but this just didn't do it for me at all. A medium depth of slightly dulled ruby led to a poorly formed bouquet. It was hard to get at. When I finally burrowed down into it there was a lot of damp mixed in with an otherwise good fruit.

This all reads like the wine was faulty but at the time it just came across as wine that needed more work on its fruit before it entered the winery. Disappointed.

Banockburn “Serré” Pinot Noir Geelong, Victoria 1997

A well developed wine showing good age in a dull tawny and a really fine nose of old bits and pieces stitched together by an intriguing fruit. I was won over straight away. This had an enchanting perfume. No need to drink this wine at all! Some oak. Some game. Some smoke. Some blackberry, aged currants and even a trace of youthful raspberry tracing an eternal line through the wine of quality grown in the vineyards. This has aged very successfully and continues to show potential for further cellaring

Alain Bras found boiled chestnut here. Good man Alain.

Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2004

There really was a, blood red, very dark appearance to this wine. Extreme cassis, lively currant and crushed leaf bouquet with lots of green pepper skin. Palate has a cool climate soft entry feel.; everything says cool. Excellent structure and fruit elements are all lined up well in a very strict fashion suggesting it's a wee bit contrived. Ultimately this wine is very attractive and finished with a slightly burnt 'barm braic' character. If ever a wine could be described as both a successful product and a victim of its provenance then this is it. I'd like to see this wine two years younger and five years older. First to see how brash it might have been as a youth and two to see how much maturity it is capable of.


Henschke “Cyril Henschke” Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Eden Valley South Australia 2002

A top class wine making no apology to anyone for being brilliant. Here's a wine that sits down into the palate and makes itself welcome. It's a very dark ruby with a full depth. The bouquet rises gently in a slumberous and persistent manner. It is quite simply pure quality and elegance. Intense notes of mint, green pepper and tomato leaf. It doesn't give all of it's secrets at once. You have to be patient and dig around in the bouquet to find enticing perfumes hidden behind the fruits. Rich and chocolaty fruits coat your teeth with a good weight of fruit that develop into a non ending finish. This is a super premium wine.



Wynns Coonawarra Estate “John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia 1990

For a 1990 here's wine keeping it's colour well. Only light ageing around the rims. Otherwise its looking remarkably young! Bouquet tells a conflicting story with lovely mint and eucalypt of great depth in an aged style. Great depth on the palate shows age well but also shows it has aged well also. Big acidity leans into a big berry fruit that's very smooth and interesting at first. This interest doesn't last well enough though to allow me to recommend further cellaring. I go further and suggest its sliding down right now and we missed the peak of perhaps two to three years ago.

Mount Langi Ghiran “Langi” Shiraz, Grampians, Victoria 2006

Dark heart of rich, full purple ruby. Huge pH style. Tons of ripe colour and tons of ripe fruit. Continues into a (an alcoholic?) big palate where fresh flower blossom wafts across red currant characters with a white pepper background. Bright, alert, rich and very brilliant. Well structured and lengthy wine. Excellent finish where an eclectic mix of fruits keep popping back onto the palate. Nothing unripe here!

Brokenwood “Graveyard Vineyard” Shiraz, Hunter, New South Wales 1998

Good tawny developing through a heart of rich ruby. New leather and rich deep seated fruits dominate an interesting nose. Fruit sits well on the palate in a very structured and Rhone like fashion - reminds me of good St Joseph. Age has been kind to it's features and they are soft and wrinkly but still well hung together. Great assocation with its name!

We were then treated to three wines that I have always been very fond of out of Australia. Each is quite unique and totally true to it's stated style.

Morris Show Amontillado, Rutherglen, Victoria

Grant Burge 20 Year old Tawny Barossa Valley, South Australia

1994 Seppelt "Show Reserve" Sparkling Shiraz Grampians, Victoria

L to Rt: Morris Show Amontillado, Grant Burge 20 Year Tawny, Seppelt Sparkling Shiraz

Wine Trade in Recession and Mr Lenihans Budget

At the time of the supplementary budget earlier this year I blogged a piece titled, '7 Reasons Why Mr Lenihan Should Lower Taxation on Wine in Ireland.' Well, it's that time again when we see how many billions our fiscal masters get the budget wrong by - again. I don't say this with malice. No, I follow trends. The trend has been that when the economy was on the way up this shower couldn't even guess how many billions of Euros were going to be raised by the exchequer. When it was on the way down they were, once again, consistently wrong. Now that it's tanked out they seem to think we should listen as they count the 'millens' into 'billens'. They are getting it wrong again. It's a trend folks. No other description fits the bill.

Place the wine trade into this context. Its a service industry reliant on imports. Therefore it is not entitled to any form of grant aid or other governmental support. It doesn't get a 'dig out' when times are tough. Very few individuals have made fortunes out of the trade. No, most have just worked diligently and honestly. It has been a successful trade where growth and employment have been impressive over the past fifteen years. In addition it is a very serious revenue earner for the exchequer. Excise, and VAT on the excise, collected by the drinks trade are important to the health of the Irish economy. Wine for home consumption is the growth part of the domestic side of this trade. Whiskey is the growth part of the export side.

Why would anyone wilfully and purposefully damage this trade? It would seem to an outsider that anyone found guilty of such an attack could be classed as an economic terrorist or perhaps even (unwittingly) treasonous.

Why would anyone raise taxes to such an extent that, while consumption increases, the tax take actually decreases? It would seem to be a completely indefensible act and one guilty, at the very least, to the charge of being stupid and incompetent.

One of my simple 7 requests was that Mr Lenihan should at all costs stem the flow of shoppers flocking to the North of Ireland. The high value cost of alcohol is a principle reason why its worth going North at all. Well, with taxes so high on alcohol in the Republic it is now more than a cross border flow. It's a torrent. Trolley loads of spirits and wines are being packed into the backs of cars across the border for (illegal) resale into the South every minute of every day! It's a complete joke. A national shame. No-one in authority seems to want to do anything about it. No-one seems to mind that it's now possible to phone in your illegal booze order and have it delivered to your front door!!

Yesterday I blogged a piece that suggested it might be a good time to enter the wine trade. While I did point to many of the problems that the trade has at present I think I failed to emphasise properly how difficult it might be to be a member of this trade where all of your costs are based on a healthy economy. Clearly a healthy trade is one that participants can exit with some degree of ease. Right now there are many traders who would like to get out but are stuck with high rents, wage bills etc while at the same time margins are depressed and footfall is growing lighter. That's tough. Then Mr Lenihan effectively encourages shoppers to go North! Trapped and nowhere to go.

This is a good trade that needs a few basic incentives thrown its way. No one is looking for bailouts or NAMAsationing. All it needs is a level playing pitch where those who break the law are arrested and those who make the laws are intelligent. How simple is that?

This is my 100th blog. Ireland and the Recession. No time to procrastinate. Is it a good time to get into the Irish wine trade? Is it a healthy trade?

Smart and modern Next Door, Sundrive Road

http://www.simplywines.ie/ seem to think so. They're opening a new wine warehouse soon. The Cellar Master in Stillorgan (http://www.cellarmaster.ie/) has survived to celebrate its 1st Birthday. Mark Lambes bonded wine warehouse business has just expanded into an additional 65,000 case warehouse out at Ballycoolin. Curious Wines in Bandon is working the air waves and the social media circuit as good (if not better) than any business in Ireland. The supermarkets are fighting each other in the trenches for market share and I have been contacted in the past month by three separate individuals who want to 'get into' the wine trade. Comans has just launched the new and exclusive McKenna Collection of wines from Chile. Is all of this just a search for a cash margin business in times of economic meltdown or is it a reflection of a trade doing well in an economy short of ideas?

Cellar Master Wine Warehouse Stillorgan Co. Dublin

We had a recession back in the 1980's. At that time the wine trade was very small. No-one would have really cared if it suffered or not. Beers and spirits ruled the day and the rest of us ('wine people') were considered a bit 'odd'. I joined that trade in 1984. As a sort of a trip down memory lane I opened two German Rieslings at my Wine School last week. I bought the oldest wine back in the mid eighties at an auction arranged by the receiver of the McGowans wine business. (It had been hugely successful out of large mixed grocery premises at the foot of Carysfort Avenue in Blackrock, Co. Dublin) It was a 1979 Kabinett from the Nahe. The second, a 2005 Mosel, I bought out in Savages of Swords for €4.99 last week. I'm not sure if it came from a receivers auction but at that price it must have come from a closed business.

Both wines were exceptional. Look at the labels in the photo. Time has certainly changed labels out of Germany! Other than that, the point is made that the wine trade in Ireland has grown up, changed, to an extent come full circle and now faces a very real crisis.

Currently the switch to home drinking as opposed to pub drinking is real. It's apparent benefit to the wine trade, its suppliers and retailers though is probably only a short term benefit. I say this because the trade is shrinking both in volume and margin achieved. Costs are not controlled by the trade. Insurance, transport and government taxation will all rise shortly. Indeed it is hard not to see costs continue to rise over the next few years. (Wages will be reduced but employers contributions of the smaller take home wage packets will increase!) Allied to this will be the continuation of a reduction in retail footfall and cross border shopping. Remember, two years ago the trade imported just over 8million cases. This year it might shade 7 million.

Yours truly with Brian McEvoy at the recent McKenna Collection launch

Is this a healthy trade? Depends on how we look at it.

For instance many importers have adopted a more realistic appreciation of what their portfolios should have, as opposed to what they have had over the past number of years (eg three expensive Chablis when one reasonably priced well made wine would have sufficed; or no focus at all, just a shotgun approach where everything from everywhere was listed!)

Relationship Management is back. The bigger companies are not as rude/arrogant towards their customers as they have been for a number of years. Smaller companies are operating in smaller circles and keeping very close both to their customers and to the credit lines they extend. Because of the nature of this 'niggly' detail it could be argued that bigger companies will give up long before the smaller ones. All it needs is one or two to leave the sector ... (mind you Barry Fitz seems to want to control its destiny be getting into retailing through the troubled Galvins business and its Carry Out Chain)

The closed Papillon Warehouse

If margins can be maintained and bad debts kept to a minimum then most wine businesses will make it through to the New Year. Without volume growth we will most likely see a few amalgamations before summer 2010. If interest rates rise this will happen very quickly as businesses attempt to rationalise cost. Perhaps this should happen by choice and happen soon rather than by enforcement later? Why don't a few smaller distributors join forces? It's never really happened here. We seem to treasure a stubborn independence even when its patently obvious that there are too many small distributors fighting for a smaller share of the market! You can only grow into a smaller place when the market is expanding unless you encourage change.

Why would anyone join in to this flux? The answer must be, why not? Every trade needs new ideas and new blood. Back in the eighties small businesses, such as Ecock's and Verlings, brought new ideas, new products and bucket loads of enthusiasm into a trade dominated by large distributors during a recession. The only difference now is that the multiples dominate and the large distributors have lost interest in wine as a subject worth discussing -they closed down the Wine Board and refer to boxes as they would any other commodity. That paves the way for good guys to enter the trade.

I am fond of saying that the wine trade is littered with good intentions and that the best way to make a small fortune is to begin with a large one! New entrants must recognise that the trade has serious problems ahead and without a very clear route to a 'paid for sale' there is no sense in joining in. If that's not a problem than get stuck in. Get modern and exciting and enjoy the ride. The Irish wine trade is not going away -its only changing. I'd say for the better and worth getting into.

Manage your expectations, micro manage your costs, find your niche, keep your customers close, recognise the Recession, Educate and Educate some more, don't listen to the big guys, keep moving!

Why Bother with Wine Fairs?

I'm a great critic of wine fairs. At the high end of things, such as VinExpo in Bordeaux, they are expensive talking shops. At the bottom end, such as forty Italian producers in Dublin looking for distribution across a small Irish market they are simply a waste of time and money. So, why, when no-one has any spare cash, do fairs (in Ireland) seem to be on the increase rather than the other way around?

Let's announce a forthcoming fair:

John Wilson's Favourite Australians
Tuesday 24th November
6.30pm - 8.30pm
The Function Room at Fallon and Byrne,
11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2

Places cost 20 Euro and are available from ireland@wineaustralia.com or 065 7077264.

For a start this Tasting/Fair is aimed at the public and not at the trade. That's good. Very often when a country of origin puts on a fair of some kind its just a pile of wine, people or both thrown together into a room with no apparent focus. No questions are asked as to how the fair is going to translate into sales. Indeed, very often wines are introduced that aren't here, and probably won't ever arrive here, as being an end in itself. Wine Fairs need to remember that marketing budgets are meant to support sales - not the other way around! If it's a trade fair and wineries are looking for distribution then there should, by necessity, be a meaningful attempt to follow leads and contacts after the fair has ended. This never seems to happen.

This Australian fair will show about seventy wines that are here in Ireland. John Wilson is a well known and respected Irish wine journalist. All positive. If you disagree with his comments, or indeed choices, you can give him immediate feedback. It's just not the same when we import our wine speakers - they only come for the money and tend not to have any idea who we are or what we drink. As I say, I am critical!

John Wilson

Australia Inc has a wine plan. It's an integrated one and this particular Fair is just one part of a very large jigsaw puzzle. The final picture will show Australia as a diverse and interesting producer of world class wines. I attended three Wines of Australia tastings last month alone. Each was well worth attending because I was being taught something relevant. I was shown wines and vineyard statistics in context. It's a big and well stitched pattern Australia is rolling out. I know it's marketing but I also see it as a real message - not just, 'here today, see you same time next year, aren't we wonderful.'

Finally, this Fair is good value. Seventy wines for €20.00. Write your favourites down. Christmas beckons.

Over the next two months there will be many very good consumer focused wine fairs all around the country. On the 13th and the 14th of this month the Clarion Hotel in Cork will host the inaugural Good Wine Show. It's a collaboration between Karwig Wines, Curious Wines and Bubble Brothers. I wish them well. Focus guys, focus. At €15.00 it promises a 100 wine selection across three wine portfolios.

I hope that none of these are money grabbing exercises. I hope they are a geniuine attempt to get to know, and to stay with, their consumer base. I hope they offer value and quality. I hope they recognise that the Irish wine consumer is not a fool and deserves to be rewarded for loyalty and diligence over the past ten years.

I hope the wine trade knows that it needs to learn how to add value to its sales. These wine fairs are a great way to do just that. Cheapening prices is just a race to the bottom of a commoditised well of wine. Let's hear it for the wine fair that maps out a strategy towards a better sale rather than just a route to the nearest cash register. Let's hear it for the energy and drive of everyone who follows up on their fairs and really understands that one night wine stands are in the past and have no place in a forward thinking trade.