Jean Trimbach came to Dublin yesterday and gave an extraordinary tasting at Chapter One of his Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile wines. The wines were fantastic as was Jean's ability to keep a running commentary going without interfering with the tasting. He has a pitch perfect friendliness about him. Mind you, it tends to be an easy gig when you can throw in lines like, "these wines are carried by 25 out of the 26 three star Michelin restaurants in France"! He wouldn't tell us who the 26th is.....guesses included Hugel....
Frederic Emile vineyard at Trimbach
Trimbach began making wine in 1626 and renamed their Riesling Grand Reserve in 1967 after the French regulatory authority, the INAO, deemed it an illegal designation according to new wine laws. The wine was renamed Frederic Emile after grandfather Trimbach who won a stack of prizes at an international wine fair in Brussels in 1898. This is such an incredible wine that granddad must be a happy camper wherever he is today.
All of the following are sealed by natural cork except for the Reserve Riesling which uses the Diam cork. Trimbach is not convinced that Stelvin would do them any favour. Jean told us that truly great Alsace Riesling requires a ripeness level eq to13%vol from a yield of about 55hl/ha from a vineyard capable of developing good mineral expression in the wine. The Frederic Emile Riesling vines are on average 45 years old with some as old as 75 years. It's a steep vineyard requiring special hoists to pull a plough etc up and down the slope. Over the past century Jean tells us there have only been four times where Trimbach has produced three great vintages in a row from these vines - 47/48/49 ; 88/89/90 ; 00/01/02 and 07/08/09 In addition he tells us to get hold of the Reserve Riesling 2008 as soon as you can as it is truly one of the greatest wines they have produced!
This was one of the great tastings of the year. Each of these wines is quite brilliant and my notes are at times tough on them. The best need to be given a stern treatment! One point to note is that regardless of age all of these wines looked quite brilliant in the glass.
Trimbach Riesling Reserve 2006
This wine shows delicate and intense ripe varietal character on the bouquet with a light night scent dominant. These ripe effects follow well to the palate which is accurate and well put together but lacks great length and depth. Good commercial wine.Good wine making.Woke the palate up brilliantly.
Jean: there was a lot of warm tropical rain in October 2006 just before the Riesling harvest which always begins at the end of October.
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 2003
Intense deep nose showing some marzipan character. Attacks well with a fine young fruit showing green at the edges; fleshes out well to balance a super acid structure; length is disappointing leading to a wine showing full rich fruit but not enough aromatics to impress.
Jean described this wine in a most peculiar fashion, "a bring me home tonight wine....as it's delicious right now." He's French and gets away with that sort of thing..!
A very hot vintage. While the French allowed acidification for the first time Trimbach did not need to acidify this wine.Jean tells us that his brother and wine maker Pierre reckons the vines went asleep for August to preserve themselves against the heat.
Jean Trimbach looking happy in Dublin
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 2004 Fine and rich aromatics with hints of night scents and honeysuckle. Great depth to the fruit with an excellent minerality showing through. Racy acidity balances well to a rich and 'creamy' palate; Lasts well to a finish dominated by a flinted minerality. This is a super wine.
Jean: "..white flowers dominate this vintage...".
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 2002
Old apple skins, orange peel and citrus. Quite a deep nose but it doesn't 'jump out' of the glass. Full and fat palate with an ageing feel about it. Acidity is muted and hiding behind the ample fruit. Pleasant wine but a lot of hard work required to get into its various elements. Surprising finish is dominated by structure rather than fruit.
Jean: "....generous, intellectual and approachable..."
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 2001
Muted nose. Crunchy palate with very obvious fruit which seemed to be 'forcing' varietal character into the wine. Fantastic mouthfeel; rich and mineral drenched; deep and flavoursome. This follows well to the finish where lots of fruit and structure gives great length. (This wine didn't seem to be in proper condition . Perhaps Trimbach might reconsider stelvin?)
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 2000
Ah, a millennium wine. Slightly extra green tinges. Very intense nose. Love it. Tremendous depth and style. Some beeswax showing through a lot of minerality. Showing immense and, if I can say it, magisterial, varietal effects. Initial impression on palate was a slightly watery fruit which quickly blossomed to a soft, elegant and delicate palate. Quite brilliant. Finish had an almost salted nature to the minerality which was, in association with the fine acid, piercing and intense. Youth in this wine showed a a drying tannic affect on the finish. This will grow for twenty years plus!
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 1999
Not quite there on the nose - bit crude and ordinary. Pleasant wine on palate with a full fruit that opens well into a broad and generous feel. Lacks elegance and minerality. Could do better. Finish is 'pretty' with nothing of note to recommend it except perhaps an attractive austerity.
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 1998
Developing a bit of colour with age. Lots of orange and citric fruit elements; excellent toastiness; deep rich and generous wine. This is a full-on version of the wine! Perhaps the palate is too fat ? where the acid is hidden away and it lacks white flower elegance. Otherwise its all excellent and will find favour with the consumer.
Jean: this wine contains up to 20% noble rotted grapes. This is unusual as the vineyard in question has such a high degree of tolerance against rot that there is seldom enough grapes available to even make a Vendages Tardive. In fact they don't ever spray against rot!!
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 1997
Light gold; small and muted nose. Good palate with a full, rich and fantastic acidity; piercing style; this is fine up to point but it then cries out for a balancing food. The finish here drops away quite quickly and could do with a stiff meal to keep it going! Perhaps a bit reductive? Perhaps a bit asleep?
Trimbach Alsace Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 1996
Green tinged. Superb nose of deep and ripe orange rind with lots of honeysuckle character; big and well developed fruit. Not flashy but deep and obvious; jumps against the palate. It's an aggressive style with strong acid and a strong tight fruit. Ageing brilliantly. Love it.
Jean: '96 was not a solar year! It was in fact a very cold year and this wine has a high malic acid level.
Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Vendages Tardives 2001
Light gold; intense nose with light rotted and fungal elements and a background of lightly warmed plastic. Good foreground and a rush of fruit brilliantly balanced to a searing acidity. Fine wine making apparent. This is not an ott dessert wine. It is restrained and graceful. Superb and will age indefinitely.
2009 was Jean's brother Pierre's 30th vintage as winemaker at Trimbach. The 2009 Frederic Emile won't be released for many years yet. There is every chance that the next generation will have taken over wine making responsibility by then.What a responsibility! Jean did tell us though that Trimbach now owns close to 40 hectares of prime vineyard in Alsace.With global warming and new ideas coming on board there is no doubt that that Jeans grandaddy's wine will continue to evolve for a long time to come.
Wow Girls at the Trimbach Tasting - sorry Simon